Transforming the Textile Sector: Regional Insights and Strategies for a Circular Economy

The textile industry faces critical challenges regarding sustainability, particularly in reducing waste and fostering a circular economy. One major issue is the lack of infrastructure and services that encourage Repair, Reuse, and Repurpose of textiles, which prevents citizens from fully engaging in circularity. The transformation of the industry is therefore essential to combat climate change, requiring innovative business models and accessible infrastructures to support circular behaviours. Addressing these challenges is not only vital for reducing waste but also for creating sustainable communities and economies.

In response to these issues, the thought process behind the SOLSTICE project began with the recognition that existing systems in many regions across Europe do not sufficiently support circular practices. The initial focus is on understanding the current circular textiles ecosystem across 4 territories, evaluating material flows, and identifying gaps in infrastructure. SOLSTICE partner Circle Economy, leads the current state analysis. Their work will increase our understanding of the circular textiles’ ecosystem in these territories, providing critical insights into the areas that require immediate action. This analysis will not only guide the selection of circular interventions to be piloted in these case-study regions but also contribute to the design of blueprints that can be adapted and implemented elsewhere.

The current landscape across Grenoble-Alpes Métropole (France), Berlin (Germany), Prato (Italy), and Catalonia (Spain) reveals a diverse set of strengths, challenges, and opportunities for circular textiles. Each city and region bring unique characteristics and specializations that contribute to a circular economy vision, focusing on the 5R: Reuse, Repair, Refuse/Reduce, Recycle, and Repurpose:

Grenoble-Alpes Métropole stands out for its focus on reuse and repair initiatives, integrated within a dynamic, high-tech-driven economy. Despite the area's smaller textile sector, initiatives like second-hand shops, swap places, and repair centres provide essential infrastructure. Grenoble also leverages its status as France's second largest research hub to drive innovation, making it a key player in circularity efforts.

Berlin, as the EU’s central hub for reuse, repair, and repurpose, has a well-developed circular fashion ecosystem. The city boasts a rich history in fashion, transitioning into a modern leader in sustainable fashion and upcycling. Berlin’s industry spans small entities covering most of the value chain, benefiting from Germany’s strong role in textile innovation, particularly in technical clothing and smart fabrics. Berlin’s blend of history, fashion, and sustainability sets a strong example for integrating past and future into its circular economy.

Prato is a historical textile powerhouse, with a well-established industrial ecosystem centered on reuse, sorting, and recycling. Known for its circular production techniques dating back to the 19th century, Prato excels in industrial symbiosis, where companies collaborate to reuse and recycle materials efficiently. The city's strength lies in specialised production, bolstered by technological innovation and investment in machinery. As home to over 6,800 textile companies, Prato significantly contributes to Europe’s textile production, making it a hub for high-value textile exports. Its commitment to recycling and industrial collaboration reflects a circular economy deeply embedded in its local culture.

Catalonia, with its broad and diverse textile production, focuses on reuse and recycling. It has evolved from traditional textiles like wool and linen to more niche markets, including technical textiles and fashion. Catalonia’s textile sector employs nearly 65 000 people, with a majority working in small and medium-sized enterprises. Catalonia’s textile waste management infrastructure is particularly robust, with a growing number of sustainable clothing brands, and 15 authorised textile waste. This diversity in textile production and processing gives Catalonia a comprehensive advantage in supporting circular initiatives.

Circle Economy’s analysis of consumer behaviour across Grenoble, Berlin, Prato, and Catalonia highlights the diverse approaches to fashion consumption and sustainability, though it’s important to note that for now, the data for Prato, Grenoble, and Berlin reflects national trends rather than city-specific insights. For Catalonia, however, the analysis covers both regional and national levels, providing a more nuanced understanding of consumer habits.

The next steps in the assessment process will focus on measuring the impact of circular textile initiatives across three essential categories: social, environmental, and spatial.      
First, an accessibility mapping of circular textile solutions across different socio-economic profiles will be conducted. This analysis will help understand how these initiatives can be more widely adopted within diverse communities.

Furthermore, research will be undertaken on the local employment benefits generated by circular textile practices, emphasizing their contribution to local economies. On the environmental front, research will focus on emissions linked to textile production, transportation, and waste management, covering both direct and indirect sources. The goal is to assess how circular practices can reduce material footprints within the industry. A review of current waste management practices will provide insights into areas for improvement, aligning with sustainability objectives.

To inform assessments, various data sets will be required, including indicators related to the textile value chain and spatial data. Key information will encompass urban features such as administrative borders, transportation networks, green infrastructures, and waste management facilities. In addition, data on population density and socio-economic profiles will be gathered, focusing on aspects like income, age, and education levels. Understanding the demographics of the regions involved will be vital in identifying both challenges and opportunities for promoting circular textiles. Finally, a baseline for employment across the textile value chain will be established, analysing full-time equivalents (FTE) in various sectors, from fibre production to recycling. This will include labour data segmented by age and gender, providing qualitative insights on remuneration, skills, representation, and branch agreements.

The final version of this comprehensive analysis, which will be published in Summer 2025, will inform strategic interventions and guide the design of the upcoming SOLSTICE pilots (WP3).